June 15, 2005

New friends driving Miss Daisy.
Today is estimated income tax day. Nothing I look forward to but necessary. Bearfoot is relaxing along with his crew in the backyard of the Calhoun estate. I have a heated pool just a few steps away and a welcoming kitchen very closeby. I attended my 12 yr. old granddaughter Emily's graduation last night in Pawlet, VT. As she marched in, I was taken aback by how grown up she looked with her hair pinned up, make up, high heels and a gown. Reality check!!
She won the American Legion award. I connected with a couple of former friends from the past and just barely made it back to Hartford before dark. I no longer drive after dark since it seems my perception is not as clear as it once was. Happens to just about all of us, I guess.
My kayak is stored here in the shed. I will bring it out, clean it up and hopefully get out on the water somewhere nearby. Back to the progressive trip since I seem to be running ahead of it:
June 6, 2005 Sebastian and I pulled out early in the morning from Ashland, VA on Rt.1, the old Washington Hwy. There was very little traffic and four beautiful lanes of new pavement all the way to Fredericksburg, VA where we did relent and jump onto I 95 for a few exits to Hwy. 17. There was again light traffic and good road up to 15/29. We veered off on 15 in Frederick, VA and cruised on north on a scenic ride up through Maryland to Gettysburg, PA. We camped at Drummer Boy and I wrote of it in a previous post.
June 8th, I drove north on 15 which is a great road. It was very hot but we remained cool in Bearfoot until mid-day then I opened all the windows. We veered off on Rt. 11 in Sunbury, PA to follow the big beautiful Susquehanna River. Eventually, I grew weary of the stop/go traffic of the many small villages we passed through. It was a long slow hot haul to Rt. 29 which crosses the mighty river and put us on I 81 north. I 81 didn't disappoint me with it's famous pot holes, cracks, ridges and heavy truck traffic. Most unpleasant to put it mildly. I am aware as I travel that the infrastructure of the US highway system is deteriorating at an alarming rate. Everything in Bearfoot was shaking and falling. My jaw was clenched, shoulders aching by the time we pulled off on I 88 in Binghamton, NY for the short trip east on Rt. 7 to Belden Hill Campground in Harpursville. It was our longest day yet at over 300 miles. Sebastian suffered a short bout of motion sickness but recovered rapidly when allowed to run through the long high meadows at Belden Hill. I sat on a bench overlooking the Catskill Mts., layer after layer of blue mts. A lovely place to ground oneself after a long trip.
June 9th we are off again on I 88 east to Albany where we pick up I 87 N to the Adirondack region. A hot trip dodgeing those orange barricades and riding on the rumble strip through miles and miles of construction. But I am happy to see that NY is repairing the road. In Saratoga Springs we detour to 9N which rolls up and down to Corinth, NY and the Alpine Lake RV resort. I am looking forward to a 3 day rest from the road. Our site is next to a small lake with a fountain. I shut off the AC at twilight and sleep with the sounds of fountain and a couple of bullfrogs. My daughter Theresa, her husband Alex and son Colin join me for an overnight on Saturday. Just as the sun goes down, my son, Matt, his wife, Kellie and their two daughters, Emily and Lilly pop in. How wonderful it feels to be surrounded at last by family.

June 13, 2005

Moved east yesterday to Hartford, NY, a rural town close to the VT border. My sister's home sets high on a hill with spectacular views to the mts. I am backed in next to the house protected from the daily T-storms and any winds. The pool is just a few steps away and we are huddled into some bird-loving spruce trees. The grass is soft and welcoming on my bare feet. It is still hot and humid generally initiating a T-storm every afternoon, cooling the air for only a few mins. My grandson, Colin who is 12 is with me. He enjoyed his first ride in the motorhome as we rolled and weaved over from Alpine Lake. I watched him duck his head as we passed under a low overpass. I told him how I had learned years ago during my coastal sailing experiences to not look up as the tall mast passed under the bridges. The same rule applies to this mode of travel. The sign states 13'6" clearance, one has ato trust it is correct and don't look up! My plan is to just rest for a few days and then begin cleaning inside and out, waxing and doing laundry. The mundane tasks of upkeep lurk ahead this week. I will be pulling my kayak, Namaskar, out of storage here too. I look forward to getting out on the nearby lakes.
Going backwards in my story thus far to April 21st: Unfortunately, I was not able to connect with a few additional friends in the New Bern area so we rolled on up to Emporia VA where we encountered more strong t-storms that night. I had a few repairs that needed to be made in Bearfoot. I made a half-day stop at Crisp RV Center in Chocowinnity, NC. The work was carefully done by competant, cheerful people and I was out of there at noon for the short trip to Emporia.
The next day the storms brought in cold air from our northern neighbors and Sebastian and I went on to Christopher Run Campground on Lake Anna, VA. We were given a site in the woods but leveling Bearfoot was next to impossible. They have few level sites on the hills there. I was given a choice of 3 other sites. I tried each one but there was no way without planks and blocks which I don't carry. The last site was doable but required my sewer pipe to run under the MH to the dump pipe on the other side. It's a good thing I carry lots of sewer hose. The next day, a friend from MA joined us for 5 days. It was really nice having company aboard. Parting was a sad time on many levels.
April 30th, I moved over to Brian and Marilyn Sumner's home in Goochland, VA. Their drive way and separate garage lend itself perfectly to Bearfoot's bulk. I do need to be guided in and out though because of the closeness of the trees. Brian offers his expertise and we manage to position Bearfoot without any damage. The Sumner's have generously allowed me a safe haven before. Christmas Eve '04 was one of those times. I was unable to drive Bearfoot due to a recurance of an on-going eye lid problem. My eyelids are another story going back to 1997 when I began suffering from burning, itching and dry eye symptoms. The symptoms worsened when driving, reading or watching TV. When driving, I felt I needed to sleep so I would pull over, close my eyes but then wasn't sleepy. A few miles later, the same thing happened. Doc's concluded I was suffering from common dry eye and prescribed otc eye drops. The symptoms continued to worsen until 2/1/98 when I stopped driving altogether. My marriage of 27 years ended and my eye condition became nearly unbearable. I sought help from specialists at institutions such as Duke, ECU as well as neurologists, opthhalmologists and others. Finally, I saw a doc associated with Harvard Med School in Boston the summer of '98. By that time, I was unable to drive, read, cook, use the phone, write a check, watch tv or walk without guidance. The NC Assoc. for the Blind visited me and provided training so I could care for myself safely. They also provided books on tape and planned to train me with a white cane for walking about. Neighbors called to check on me and to pick up my groceries. Another dear friend came to read to me. I spent much of my time meditating and scribbling in a notebook. It was a time of pain and darkness, of unimaginable frustration, sadness and fear but it also was a time of incredible growth for me. The interesting thing about this condition is when I sing, my eyes open therefore I sang a great deal. In fact, I found I could drag my kayak to the creek in front of my home in NC, slip it into the brown brackish water, climb aboard while singing the entire time. I sang every song I know plus I sang my story in the Native American tradition. I kayaked nearly every day and became a familiar figure on the estuaries connecting the Neuse River near Pamlico Sound. I was almost resigned to being unable to use my eyes ever again when the doc from Boston diagnosed my condition as BEB (Benign Essential Blepharospasm); one of a family of Dystonia diseases. www.dystonia.com Long story cut short: I went to UNC, NC to receive Botoxin injections in the muscles of my eyes in Nov. '98 and within 7 days was able to use my eyes for the first time in nearly a year. I held a Thanks-For-Giving Party for my friends and neighbors. What a celebration it was! The treatment wasn't and still isn't perfect but I could live a better life. I just couldn't drive or ride my bike for another 4 years. The stress in my life was greatly reduced and I found a new doc in Richmond, VA. I drove again in '02. Obviously, I am doing well now since I am writing from this big rig.

June 7, 2005

Sebastian at doggie beach, Naples, FL
Bearfoot successfully rolled into Drummer Boy RV Resort in Gettysburg, PA yesterday shortly before some truly violent t-showers came blowing through cooling the 90 degree temps down into the 60's. Most welcome! The trip north on Rt. 1, the Washington Hwy, was delightful with new pavement, 4 lanes of very quiet road and few stoplights. We jumped on 15/29 and found a bit more traffic but still very pleasant; then 15 right into Gettysburg. These wonderful old highways are much better than beating yourself up on I 95 or some of the others. This is a nice park with wireless internet service and cable tv at all full service sites. It is nicely wooded and the sites feel more private than in some of the parks where we are cramped closely together.
Back to the journey before this one: It is April 6th and I am headed north to Myrtle Beach, SC. It seems Savannah, GA drew Bearfoot in like a magnet. My plan was to bypass but without a navigator (Sebastian refuses to learn), I ended up headed E at an intersection of 4 lanes. I had to make a decision - go on further in search of a place to turn around but getting deeper into the City or attempt a u-turn. I opted for the u-turn. It was very tight for our 55' (with the dinghy). My heart rate increased as I straddled the line at the light - taking up as much space as I could without having horns blowing in protest. When the light changed, I pulled out into the intersection as far as I could before cranking the wheel sharply in a left turn. I prayed to the Goddess of women rvers, Rvena and my dad who had been a trucker before his death. Bearfoot swung around with the right front tire going up over the curb a bit, Of course, where the mothership goes so goes the dinghy. I watch in the rear view mirror the right front tire of Lil' Cub (my car)going up over the curb. A breathe a sigh and a Thanks Be to God and Goddesses alike. I also hail a thanks to the patient motorists as I head out of town. Not the end of the story though - I once again missed my turn and had to make another very similar u-turn in heavy traffic before getting on 17 N. By that time, I was pleading with God to get me out of Savannah. I vowed to invest in a GPS a.s.a.p. Exhausted but exhilerated to have handled a tense situation by myself, I haul into Point South, SC KOA. An oasis for sure. The sky is threatening as I quickly set up Bearfoot and walk Sebastian. This campground has proven to be a haven for me before because it is right off Hwy. 17 and I 95. they also are a friendly welcoming park and offer pizza delivery as well as cable tv. The t-showers move in while Sebastian and I cuddle in under our down comforter, safe aboard our rolling home.
Lot's of mud the next morning as I prepare Bearfoot to travel on up to the Beach. We chose Lakewood RV Resort in Southern Myrtle beach because it is quiet and less developed. We were given a site right next to the dunes where I could hear the waves 24/7. The weather was superb for a few days until it turned very cold and windy. What salty happy dog I have now as he resumes his clam digging in the shallows. I biked around the park every day for an hour and a half. There are over a thousand sites here. No internet service was readily available and I was desparate to pay bills so put the laptop in the car and drove around town finally seeing a sign, Computer Inferno. It was a store but obviously had wireless since I could park in the lot and do my computer business.
I am eager to get back on the road again and head back to the Old Dominion. Next stop New Bern, NC at the KOA for a few days to reconnect with friends. I had lived in that area for 13 years. My trusty weather radio warns of high winds on the heels of a cold front. I ignored my intuition and started north on 17. Bearfoot is quite stable normally. The wind was gusting to 35 and 40 mph and would periodicaly give a a push sideways. Having the wind on the beam was the most welcome point of sail during my sailing days but not now. It required constant vigilance and was exhausting. Having protection from the tree lined highway was helpful until Wilmington, NC up through Jacksonville where it is open and flat. As I approached the Twin Rivers bridge across the Trent and Neuse Rivers in New Bern, NC, I noticed the wind was blowing "smoke" on the river. The bridge is new, 65' high I think, long and bumpy as it spans both rivers. It is too late to quit now. Rvena, my dad and I whiteknuckle it or what seems morelike wrestling Bearfoot across to the KOA in Bridgeton. I actually released my seat belt thinking we might blow over the side into the water below. The sight of that triangular red and orange KOA sign warms my heart. My dear friend, Judi Wills, a wonderful massage therapist called and offered me a massage. Just what was needed for sore stiff shoulders and tense muscles. She had also prepared a delicious home cooked meal. Judi and her husband, John, always open their home and hearts to Sebastian and me. John and Linda Hinners from Whortonville, NC stopped by to take me to dinner in New Bern. The restaurant they had chosen was closed as were a couple of other favorites. We settled on Fred and Claire's. Our collective jaws dropped when we opened our menus. It was evident a major transformation had occurred. Here were dishes with a distinctive Country French flair in place of the downhome quisine of the past. I was left with the warm glow of sharing food and conversation with two friends who have been through many of the earth-shaking transitions in my life since 1989 when we met around another friend's table in Oriental,NC.

'June 3, 2005

Naples pier in Florida at sunset.
On April 3rd, we convoyed to Kissimmee, FL, camping at Sherwood Forest RV Resort. Sebastian and I reluctantly pulled out on our own three days later. It was a bittersweet parting. As much as I looked forward to going it alone, I would miss my sister, my best friend. Since we have reached retirement years, we have become very close. I married and moved away when I was a mere sprout of eighteen. She was just thirteen. We had very little in common back then. Through the years, we raised our families and were a bit closer but we never shared the closeness of sisters until I began spending vacations with them and then eventually camping together. We now share clothing, jewelry, secrets and deep love for one another. It was a tearful drive once I got out on the open road. Getting on the road was another matter. Emory, my ever-caring bro-in-law, agreed to lead me to a gas station where I would fit. I still haven't quite learned to accurately judge how much space I need to make a u-turn. Therefore, as I pulled forward away from the pump, I came right up to the bumper of a small parked car. I thought I had misjudged the distance between Bearfoot and the car. As my front end came up to the car bumper, I thought the worst case - I've got to remove my tow vehicle so I can back up and get out of this spot I've driven in. I started to get out of my seat but as I glanced to the left, I saw Emory jogging back to guide me through the turn. Was I glad to see him!! As it turned out, I could make the turn but it was close. One thing about pulling a car behind is the inability to back up. The car must be removed first. The process usually takes about 5 minutes but under pressure, it can seem like hours. I have discovered with my Blue Ox hitch that the car needs to be in line with the coach for me to get it off. If I get stuck in a u-turn position, I'm not sure I can get the car unhitched. I didn't have time to think of farewell tears until I got out on the open road. I went around Orlando via 417, the toll road. It was an easy trip under a cloudless sky with very little traffic. I connected with Hwy. 17 in Sanford and nosed Bearfoot North to a night's rest in Gross, FL right on the FL/GA border on the St. Mary's River. April 7th back on the road looking forward to a couple of days on the beach at Murrell's Inlet State Park, SC. Being a self-proclaimed beach bum, I've visited many beaches on both coasts and the Carribean. Murrell's Inlet SP rates in the top three. It bears little impact from man's occupation. The fresh water ponds are habitat for several alligators. But I am turned away since the park is full.

June 2, 2005

I am parked in Americamps RV park in Ashland, VA until Monday the 6th when I begin a new journey to New York State and Vermont but in the meantime I want to finish the beginning of the story of Bearfoot. We left off in St. Augustine, FL on my last post. February 1st, 2005, 6 days later and 6 days healthier, we head down to the Alligator Alley across FL, I75 West. I am still coughing but feeling much better as the weatherf finally warms up. now this is what I've been seeking for the last few weeks. There is little traffic and we stop mid-way for a picnic lunch in the sunshine.
Naples and the West Coast is all that it has been touted to be and more. (except for the traffic) Beautiful undeveloped beaches, superb climate, warm Gulf wters and lots to see and do. I join the Lake San Marino bike club right away. We meet twice a week and generally peddle between 15 and 20 miles each trip. There are about 50 of us, all over the age of 55 years. We divide into 3 groups; Fast, kinda fast and not so fast. Of course, I join the fast group! Never being one to take the conservative route.
About 3 miles out, I find I can't breathe. I stop and wait for the middle group to catch up. They are concerned when they slow up for me but I jump onto the end of their group. Our trip consists of biking to one of the many beaches taking a 20 minute break and returning a different route. On the way back we stop at MacDonald's for a snack. I find I have to stand up in the pedals quite often to relieve my aching butt. We pull into MacDonald's like a group of Harley riders. Roughly two and a half hours from the time we started out, we roll back into Lake San Marino RV Resort. Speaking of Harley's, one day as we crossed 8 lanes of traffic as a group, peddaling as fast as we could to beat the changing light, a large group of Harley riders waiting at the light began hooting and hollering, cheering in support backed up by a chorus of air horns from the numerous truckers. We waved and went on our way thankful to make it across one more time. For three nights after my first ride with the club, I was unable to sleep due to the burning pain in my thighs. Gratefully, it went away as did my lingering cough. I found myself swept up in a whirlwind of experiences; the Philharmonic, the Dinner Theater, Fifth Avenue, dances and parties at Lake San Marino, great restaurants, discovering Naples own Paul Todd and his music at St. John's church as well as in concert. Somehow we find time to play Spinner, a great Domino game, and Scrabble. We also take the dogs to Doggie Beach; a cove and sandbar devoted to dogs and their people since dogs are not allowed on Naples beaches. Sebastian is initially shy but then realizes digging in the sand under the salt water leads to clams. He pulls them out and throws them in the air. We call him the Clam Digger. He plays with his doggie cousin, Rose, a minature poodle. They are the best of friends.
Before I realize it, a month has passed. My sister, bro-in-law and I hold a meeting and decide to stay another month. Seeing the Panhandle will be postponed 'til another trip.

June 1, 2005

Photo of me, my sister, Gloria and Sebastian in Hilton Head, SC. Rosy bearly visible.
I am attempting to update my story beginning with the move aboard Bearfoot last Dec. Please forgive me if I appear to digress. I will catch up, I promise. There will also be breaks in the continuity of this journal since some days are travel days and there is no time for posting. There will be times when I will be in what I call "black out". Those are areas of this country where there isn't any web service available as well as cell phone service. Back to the story:
As I pulled into Marte's circular driveway, I realized Bearfoot actually blocked out her house from the road. We were facing southeast though and I arose early each day to witness the glorious sunrises visible in that part of the country due to the flatness and the proximity of the Gulf Stream near Cape Hatteras. An old friend, Gregory, who is the finest electrical engineer and mechanic I know came by. I told him of Bearfoot's tender state in a crosswind. He asked if I had checked the tire pressures. I had not since Colonial Truck in Ashland had presumably done so according to the maintanance I had paid for just a week before I left. Turns out, Bearfoot is very stable in the wind but with six tires carrying all different air pressures, some way over, some way under. It is a miracle we were able to go in a straight line in dead calm. Lesson for me was to take nothing for granted. Gregory fixed several wiring problems I had and blew up the tires. I had time to connect with several dear friends during my brief stay. I also connected with one of several people who needed assistanc e and guidance during their life journey. These dear people confirmed my purpose in taking "this medicine show on the road". My prayers had been answered on many levels as I left for Myrtle Beach, SC early the morning of January 15th, 2005. The cold temperatures seem to be following me and I eagerly turn Bearfoot onto Route 17 South.
Piece of cake with the right psi in the tires. I drive past Myrtle Beach to Point South, SC and the KOA there. Drove 246 miles this day - that is a long day for this gal. From South Point to Hilton Head, where I rendevous with my sister Gloria and her husband, Emory is not far. Hilton Head RV Park is lovely with concrete pads and all the amenities. It is quiet there so I get to pick out my own site by tooling around in a golf cart, map in hand.
Thermostat went on my water heater and it began spraying hot water all over outside the rv. A mobile repair man, Paul came quickly and in no time, it was repaired. First repair of many to come. Funny how I got through the freezing temps for two weeks in VA without any frozen pipes but what do you know, I woke up to a frozen drain on my graywater tank. The sun took care of that problem. January 22nd, we left for St. Augustine, FL in convoy. It's very relaxing for me to follow my bro-in-law's Adventurer. I do have to compromise though and follow him down I95. Jacksonville, FL was slow and congested. It took an hour just to cross the bridge over the river. We pulled into North Beach Campground at Vilano Beach on A1A and were able to park end to end in a huge pullthrough site. I really like the heavy canopy of Live Oaks here. The Atlantic on the East side and the Intercoastal Waterway on the West side. Lots of great seafood here too. I have developed a severe case of bronchitis. January 25th we rolled on out to I95 for the trip to Port St. Lucie, FL. We witness tremendous damage still visible from last season's hurricanes. Huge brush piles, scraggly forests and lots of blue tarp roofs. I need to sleep and heal myself from this bronchitis.

May 30, 2005

This is me at Lake Anna, Virginia.
Day of memorials and memories - a time to reflect on where we are and where we are going.
I left Ashland, VA, Americamps, which was a practical decision based on my need to rid Bearfoot of wastewater and fill my propane tank. I had used most of my propane heating the MH (motorhome) through what seemed like a lengthy period of extraordinary cold temps. I waited until 9 a.m. to leave thereby avoiding most of the rush traffic. Normally, I avoid I95 as well as other super highways but I planned to roll on down I95 as far as Petersburg, VA, then get off on Hwy. 301 which is much less traveled. The wind was howling, a cross wind on the "beam". Reminded me of many sailing experiences years ago when we would have welcomed a beam wind. Incidently, I had a "wet dream back then - a dream where my husband at that time and I would live aboard and sail the waterways. That was not to be but now the dream is real, broader without the restrictions imposed by water. The many highways call me. Curiously, my MH is a Land Yacht and I tow a dinghy, so called by RVers and sailors alike. The wind keeps blowing me out of my lane. The MH was rocking and shifting. I slowed to a snail's pace in the right hand lane and white knuckled it to Rt. 301. All my furies came out, doubts, fears and insecurities. I wondered if I had the "right stuff" for this type of travel. By the way, I had no prior experience driving a vehicle of this size. I had towed some horse trailers many years back and more recently pulled a fifth-wheel camper trailer. But not much to prepare me for Bearfoot who weighs in at a hefty 10 tons. It is also a cab over the engine design so that the driver sits over the left front wheel. For the first 100 miles I felt like I was driving in the middle of the road but by being vigilant with the side mirrors, I learned to place the vehicle between the lines. That is until I met a tractor trailer face to face - white knuckle, hold your breath scary. My dad was a trucker. He died in '97 but I call on his spirit quite often as I am confronted with uncomfortable moments on the road. Those concrete barriors are the pits too. When I wobbled off 301, I found the wind just as formidable there. In fact, more so because the road is only 2 lanes and is narrow. I went back on I95 and drove as far as I64 in NC. I went East and by the time I got to Chocowinnity on Rt. 17, I couldn't see straight. I was in truth still recovering from eye surgery five days earlier. I pulled into Twin Lakes Campground in Chocowinnity and called my friend, Marte in Oriental, NC to tell her I'd be along the following morning. I vowed never to push myself beyond my limitations which are much greater than they were ten years ago. Self-imposed limitations are not a direct result of age but I'd like to think they come from wisdom.

May 29,2005

This is my first post in what I hope will be a long and interesting account of my lengthy road trip aboard the 36' Airstream Land Yacht Motorhome called Bearfoot. The actual live-aboard journey began last December 11th, 2004 in Goochland, VA. After a year of soul searching, I sold my home, packed up my books, tools and some furnishings, put them in storage and moved aboard. It was really an immediate test of determination and courage since the temperature dropped below freezing for over a week. Several people offered warm beds and companionship but the need to stay "with the ship" seemed an important part of my transition to a simpler life. In addition to dealing with my fears of frozen pipes and overheated gas furnaces, an eye condition I have had since 1997 managed to drop my lids down to nearly closed. I could no longer drive. All my hopes and dreams of going on the road, travelling around this Country touching as many people as possible dissolved before my closed eyes. I have what is called Benign Essential Blepharospasm (BEB) but more on that later. Website: www.blepharospasm.com or dystonia.com. Eyelid surgery was required immediately if I was to sit in the driver's seat of Bearfoot and head south towards warmer weather. By January 6, 2005, I was pulling out of Goochland in a strong cross wind headed for Oriental, NC.